Some of these models used a “M-” prefix or “M” suffix around the model number. Hawaiian square neck models used a “P-” prefix or “H” suffix. The most common model. The second most common model, appeared in catalogs in but may have been available a year earlier , and hence should always have a pickguard or at least two holes in the body where a pickguard was mounted. The aluminum body makes for minimal midrange and practically no bass. Also this models have a serious problem with paint adhesion paint just doesn’t stick well to aluminum. The worst sounding Dobro fiddle edge, but sold correctly as being “light as a feather”. Appeared in catalogs in but may have been available a year earlier , and hence should always have a pickguard or at least two holes in the body where a pickguard was mounted. Nickel plated brass body with no engraving or sometimes a border engraving around the outside body edge , dot fingerboard inlays, rosewood fingerboard usually unbound , mahogany neck, round window soundholes, peghead with “Dobro” decal or pearl “Dobro” crest. A nice attractive model, but looks better than it sounds because of the brass body.
Ibanez serial numbers
Westwood 72 National Resonator Introduction. National resonator instruments made from to were louder than conventional acoustic guitars of the era. They were also very popular with Hawaiian and Blues musicians in the late ‘s and early ‘s.
classic history and MODEL info history, model info and specs for the classic vintage guitar makes. FEATURE ARTICLES includes articles on vintage Fender and Gibson custom colors, date-source code info, and other vintage guitar subjects.
F is the production factory which stands for Fujigen. The first digit will be the last digit of the year, ie. The last 5 numbers will be the consecutive number denoting production count for the year with the caveat that each month will start at predetermined intervals of or , etc. Presently it is set at These serial numbers are usually quite different from the MIJ numbers, have many extra digits because of the enormous volume of guitars produced, and I am not familiar enough with any of them to tell you how to figure out the dating.
Cort Serial Numbers – Cort serial numbers are denoted with a C prefix followed by either 7 or 8 digits. I’m not sure what year the changeover occurred but using the formula it will be easy for you to tell. The letter denotes year, starting in with A, with a 5 digit production number. Z will be the year Month, production number that month, year.
I do not know how accurate the system is but the few I’ve run have worked just fine. In a case where a guitar has both the true serial number will always be the headstock number. Plate numbers usually follow the pattern of the first 2 digits denoting year of production followed by a 4 digit number that denotes consecutive production for that model for that year, or consecutive production number for that particular model from the models inception.
Gibson Serial Numbers
My Yamaha serial number looks nothing like this! Several other serial number configurations used by Yamaha over the years. Letter- , like so: The letter at the beginning represents the month, so J would be March see chart above. The number following the letter is the year, in this case 7 for
How the “Hand Stamped” Date Code Works. The Code on the tube chart of your Fender Amp is made up of two letters. The First letter equates to the Year and the Second letter to the Month.
The source-date code on a pot is a 6 or 7 digit code impressed into the casing of the potentiometer. For speakers this code can be 5, 6, 7 or 8 digits long, and it’s ink-stamped or paint-stamped on the “bell housing” of the speaker. In either case, the code works the same. The first 3 digits on a pot, or the first 2, 3 or 4 digits on a speaker are the source or manufacturer code.
The remaining 3 or 4 digits are the date code. In 3 digit dates code, the 1st digit is the last digit of the year. On 4 digits date codes, the 1st and 2nd digits are the last two digits of the year. In either case, the remaining 2 digits are the week of manufacture 01 to With this in mind, remember if the last two digits of the source-date code are greater than 52, you’re not looking at the source-date code!
Also it’s worth mentioning:
Ibanez serial numbers
The progress of this type of work is slow, hence the long hiatus, however, a lot of new data have been collected regarding Fender amplifiers, including production numbers. Advances have been made with regards to the production of tolex amps and it appears that much of this information can be applied to late s tweed amps as well.
In addition, the dating-by-serial number tables have been revised and are more accurate. The bad news is that there is still a lot of work that needs to be done on the silverface amps. Unfortunately, there is some sad news to report as well.
Serial Numbers. Like the body and neck dates, using serial numbers to date a Fender is not a sure bet. At many points in Fender’s history, serial number usage overlapped again .
All numbers were impressed into the wood and a six digit number assigned, though no particular order was given and some instruments had a letter prefix. The orange labels inside hollow bodied instruments was discontinued in and were replaced by white and orange rectangle labels on the acoustics, and small black, purple and white rectangle labels were placed on electric models.
A few bolt on neck instruments had a date ink stamped on the heel area. In , Gibson first introduced the serialization method that is in practice today. This updated system utilizes an impressed eight digit numbering scheme that covers both serializing and dating functions. The pattern is as follows: The numbers show Kalamazoo production, show Nashville production.
The Kalamazoo numbers were discontinued in Bozeman instruments began using designations and, in , Nashville instruments began using designations. It should also be noted that the Nashville plant has not reached the s since , so these numbers have been reserved for prototypes.
1960’s Vintage Guitars
What’s the difference and how can you tell? The serial number of your guitar will begin with one of the above lettering sequences. Fender Japan used all of the above lettering sequences for the serial numbering of their guitars and basses over the years, and knowing this first will help you determine the year of manufacture. These stamps can be found in different locations on your guitar, so now I’ll tell you where you need to look to find these markings
At least for Aria guitars, made by Matsumoku, the serial number contains the year of manufacture in the first 2 digits, thus a guitar from would have a serial number, such as 79####. The manufacturing of Aria guitars were subcontracted out to Matsumoku from to
See more results on eBay here General Gibson serial number information Gibson serial numbers are usually on the back of the guitars headstock; either stamped, inked or as a decal. Instruments with f-holes often have the serial number repeated on a label inside the guitar body. A lack of a serial number usually implies an instrument has been refinished. The current Gibson serial number system There is no Gibson serial number decoder that can automatically date your pre Gibson, although after this time, the currently used eight digit system ha been used.
Not only can it tell the date, but also the place of production. These details are encoded unambiguosly into the serial number as follows. Numbers below signify a Kalamazoo productio, above signifies Nashville. So for example, tells us that this bass was stamped on the 2nd April day , at the Gibson Kalamazoo plant, and was the th instrument stamped that day Vintage Gibson serial numbers Gibson used various systems of numbering their instruments, and some records exist that can give a clue to a shipping date.
The serial numbers Gibson used, particularly from are often very difficult to interpret. The reason being that Gibsons 6 digit serial number system reached several times; each time they continued from So Gibson re-used serial numbers. If you read through the charts for a hypothetical number, say – we see that it was shipped in , , and again in Not an ideal situation, but many of the Guitars we see listed for sale as s instruments, are actually newer.
It is often not the sellers fault, as they will have looked through the numbers, found it was , and would see no reason to look further in the document.
Our goal is to have the most comprehensive, up-to-date database listing possible but to achieve that we need your help! So please add your Tokai in the Registry because more information about these guitars is a benefit to us all. Not only can it help us determine when a specific guitar was manufactured, it can help us clarify which are Tokai Fender copies and those that fall under the Made in Korea serial number schemes.
Unfortunately, records for Guild guitars prior to are somewhat unreliable, where they exist at all, so we are unable to fully assure the accuracy of dating before that time but we have been able to ascertain some last serial numbers which may help.
Tips and How-To’s So you need to figure out the year of production for your Fender guitar or bass. Fenders rank as the most frequently bought and sold instruments on Reverb, and finding a precise date of manufacture can be key to determining the value and specifics of an instrument. The most important thing to keep in mind when dating a Fender is the highly modular nature of the designs. Like Henry Ford, part of Leo Fender’s genius was in optimizing the company’s production efficiency.
His guitars were built en masse by an entire factory, not a single luthier toiling over one instrument at a time. Features like bolt-on necks and pickups wired into the pickguard all helped the Fender factory churn out guitar after guitar, day after day. This also means that various parts used on a particular guitar may have come from different points in time, so no single number can absolutely define when the instrument was built.
Instead, the best approach to dating a Fender is to combine indicators from the design of the instrument, the dates found on the neck and body, along with the serial number. Design Changes and Features Perhaps the best place to start when dating your Fender is to get an approximate idea of the era based on the instrument’s design and components.
This can be a tall order for someone less versed in guitar history, but we do have some resources here on Reverb to help you out. For starters, there’s the Reverb Price Guide which has thousands of entries with pictures and details on various guitars and other gear. Some browsing around the Fender section of the Price Guide can definitely help you find which model you have. We also have some other blog posts related to Fender that can hopefully be of some help.
Similarly, take a look at Behold the Jazzmaster for general timeline of the history of everyone’s favorite offset guitar.
FAQ: When was my guitar made?
Don’t let anyone try to convince you that there is a Strat Plus, they just did not exist. It was owned by a former Fender employee who recently passed away. The strings, I am certain, were the original from 87, as they were rusty and hard to pull through the nut. I have owned ‘s of Strat Plus’, as well as helping s of people to identify their guitars. I also saw where Shell Pink was listed as an available color from Fender in color code 56 but not in any of the Strat Plus brochures.
Thus, workmanship, nothing stamped with serial numbers remain the gibson guitars and restoration faq seguin dating There is far as. Collings guitar serial number decoder that can it is new function. Collings guitar serial number decoder that can it is new function.
Many records have been lost during years and most of all were destroyed in a fire accident on late ’90s in ESP Japan factory. For old guitars we can only know the exact data reading the ESP warranty card when there is , or unscrewing the neck if the neck is bolt on and read under it becuse probably theres the data write on pencil. I keep record of this data in order to try to deduce other correspondences. ESP Guitar Company says: This has resulted in alot of confusion, and For this we apologize, and we are working to maintain a more consistent system going forward.
The PRE system doesn’t apply to early ESP’s, some of which had no serial number tracking system at all and used random numbers. Thanks for your understanding. Kind of a long story. They have a way of producing black again now so expect it to all go back to the way most of us prefer over time. You have to look at the models in production that year.
If you are lucky you can find a serial written on pencil where the body is bolted to the neck or in the neck also or in the pickup cavity. Follow this reference may not be accurate because probably they printed a certain number of plates and then put on guitars in a random manner, without noticing consecutive numeration. This is the reason why we can easilu find guitars with the bolt plate referring to a year or two before or after respect the serial printed on the back of the headstock.